Meeples & Miniatures – Episode 65

Download Episode 65

Welcome to Episode 65 of the Meeples & Miniatures Podcast.

In this special show, I’m joined by listener Steve Archbold to discuss painting.

In the first part of a two-part special, we look at what you may need to start painting – and discuss (amongst other things) brushes, paint, glue, tools and undercoat.

I hope you enjoy the show!

19 Comments on Meeples & Miniatures – Episode 65

  1. Doug McMillan // August 22, 2010 at 21:23 // Reply

    Really enjoyed the show guys, who would have thought that two blokes talking about their favourite smelling glue could be so interesting! Looking forward to the next instalment.

  2. Really enjoyed this. Very informative, and encouraging. Top combination.

    Thanks guys. 🙂

  3. Just started to listen to this one but I like the comments that a war gaming standard paint job is easy to achieve. I would also like to add that the stereo balance is spot on.

    • I tried to take into account everything that was said about VftV5 – I like the idea of a little bit of panning…for the record, the mix is about 60/40.

      Thanks to everyone for the tips on this…

  4. Really liked the episode. Very informative. Top notch! Looking forward to part two.

  5. Best. M&M. Ever.
    Loved this one Neil. And Steve.
    This is the podcast I’ve been waiting for you to do FOREVER.
    Fie on any who said “it oughta be video.” When we want to hear you talk about something, we want to hear you TALK. I learned more about what I’ve been doing wrong for a year with this one cast than surfing any HUNDREDS of websites.
    Meeples and Miniatures remains one of the most consistent, most entertaining, most vital podcasts on any topic.
    Viva La Meepmin!

  6. commander_roj // August 24, 2010 at 22:49 // Reply

    Very interesting. Although i have heard the majority of hints and tips before, its amazing what you just forget/neglect to put into practice. And as ever, entertaining. i will certainly be listening again so as to remember all those things i have been neglecting to do.

  7. Some comments on content. I think you understated epoxy’s gap filling and strength qualities – no optically flat filing required, no torquing off arms and less pinning. Further, it is superb for bonding dissimilar materials.

    The second glue that went unmentioned was white glue. There are two forms on this side of the pond. Water soluble casein based “school” glues can be used for temporarily mounting figures on painting sticks or where you might want to rebase in the future – just soak and remove. The second type is acrylic glue available as both a glue (Weldbond is one brand here) or as an arts and crafts finishing medium (Mod Podge). Not water soluble once dry and available in both gloss and flat finishes, it is great for basing up troops and is widely used in the model railroad community to stick down ballast and ground cover. It’s great for flocking and adding bits of terrain to bases.

    Final comment – craft paint. There are lots of good quality acrylic paints out there that cost a fraction of what we pay as modelers. Not the best choice when you need to match a very specific colour but great when you have a couple of hundred Celts to paint all with different clothing colours. The brand I use is more like a thin artists acrylic and is great for blending on the palette. I wouldn’t use them on 40mm display figures but they are fine for gaming table standard painting.

    • Good comments about craft paints, I’ve never thought about them for figures, but I do use big tubes of acrylics for scenery.

      White glue is an essential for basing for me – I was going to mention it in the next podcast!

      Steve

  8. Excellent show, fellas. And here’s what I think about it: http://flic.kr/p/8xdFpa

  9. mistercactus // September 1, 2010 at 23:13 // Reply

    It’s only when I start listening to a new episode that I realise how much I’ve missed your ramblings. This was an awesome episode, and I think it will become one of your most downloaded. Hopefully real life will slow down a bit for you, so we won’t have to wait too long to hear more. Good job sir!

  10. Really great episode. Looking forward to part 2.

  11. Great episode, eager to hear the next session…

  12. Great episode, as always. Eagerly looking forward to the second part!

    A tip for those in the US – Michael’s craft stores carry the Cottman line of brushes by Windsor and Newton that Steve mentioned. By going to their website (www.michaels.com) you can print a weekly coupon that is usually anywhere from 25% to 50% off the price of one item, so I get the brushes for only about $2.50 to $3.00 each, which I think is a pretty good price for a decent brush. (Sure, you can only buy one at a time unless you print multiple copies of the coupon and take your kids with you… but that’s why you had them in the first place, no?)

  13. I have tried the ‘craft v. hobby paint’ challenge – http://thewulfweb.blogspot.com/2010/09/tale-of-two-pigments.html

  14. Adrian Jarvis // September 15, 2010 at 23:23 // Reply

    I really enjoyed the episode! I’ve been using Tamiya and have just started moving to Vallejo. I really like the dropper bottles that Vallejo comes in. I find that I’m able to squeeze out the right amount of paint onto the palette and it really reduces the amount of waste.

    But… I have a few comment to make regarding plastics. It seems that all the references to plastics were aimed at the hard plastic polystyrene miniatures. However as much as you like to ignore soft plastic miniatures, there are plenty of people who game in them.

    I’d like to add some comments about soft plastic minis…
    1) These too require a wash before undercoating. For the same reasons as given for washing metal and hard plastic figures.
    2) Giving the figures a base coat of white glue (PVA?) diluted with water before undercoating. The watered down white glue remains a little flexible when it dries and helps the paint have a bit of give if the extremities of the figure are accidently bent.
    3) Mould lines and flash. Usually flash can be removed with a sharp blade, but mould lines are best left. I find that because the soft plastic has a bit of give it is very difficult to cut neatly. In the end you will do more damage to the figure trying to remove the mould lines than you would get from just leaving them.

  15. Great podcast guys. Before i listened i wasn’t sure whether i would learn anything but i’vepicked up quite a few tips i’d never heard before. And like Steve i’ve struggled for ages trying to glue GW metal figures together and never thought of washing them !!!!

    On glueing plastics – i’m no expert at all and only recently re-encountered them – prior to that would be airfix kits 30 years ago. Neil -when you describe glueing you said something along the lines of you place the parts together and then paint glue along the join. I’ve always put glue on one piece and then pushed them together. Am i doing it wrong ?

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