Painting WW2 German 15mm Armour – Red Devils in the Night, Scenario 6

The upcoming 6th Scenario of the ‘Red Devils in the Night’ scenario book, entitled “Where’s Merville” has British Paras encountering a recon force of the 21st Panzer Division.

I mention in my previous painting  blog entry that this was the next part of my painting project for my WW2 German force for Chain of Command

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I thought I’d put together a pictorial step-by-step of how each of the vehicles was painted.

The colours used on the vehicles throughout:

Base colour – Plastic Soldier Company Dunkelgelb (Panther, Sdkfz 234/1, Puma). Games Workshop Bubonic Brown (Sdkfz 222, Sdkfz 250/1)

Camouflage Colours – Revell Aqua Colour Dark Green, Revell Aqua Colour Reddish-Brown

Tyres – Revell Aqua Colour Black

Tracks – Revell Aqua Colour Rust, washed with Games Workshop Armour Wash

Weathering – Washes: Coat d’Arms Dark Brown Superwash (all). Plastic Soldier Company Dark Earth (Tracks and Tyres). Drybrushing: Revell Aqua Wash Dark Earth, Games Workshop Bronzed Flesh (this is the really, really old one – probably equivalent of Bleached Bone)

Decals are from the Plastic Soldier Company 21st Panzer Division (Normandy) set

I wasn’t overly happy with the camouflage scheme that I had used on the Sdkfz 251C’s that I had previously painted

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So I went in search of inspiration on the internet for colour schemes that I could base mine on for each vehicle

Sdkfz 250/1

This model is from Forged in Battle



This was from the King and Country website

Camouflage Pattern


Tyres and Tracks








Sdkfz 222

This model is the snap-together kit from Zvezda – nice but a bit fiddly to put together!



This is a 28mm version, painted by the Troop of Shewe

Camouflage Pattern








Sdkfz 234/1

This model is from Forged in Battle



This model is from the Sierra Toy Soldier Company

Camouflage Pattern









Sdkfz 234/2 ‘Puma’

This model is from the Forged in Battle range


This is a 1:48 scale model painted by Christoph Schnarr

Camouflage Pattern

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Panther Ausf. G

This model is from the Plastic Soldier Company



From a Panther painted by Maik Lipp

Camouflage Pattern










I’m really pleased with how these have come out. After I had applied the initial camouflage patterns to the vehicles, I had mixed feelings. Some looked OK, but others…well, I thought the 234/1 looked absolutely rubbish, and I was all for getting out another model and starting again. I was also in two minds as to whether the Red/Brown colour was too red and garish.

I decided to persevere and see how they came out – and I’m glad that I did.

I was genuinely surprised, almost shocked, by the difference that drybrushing the vehicles made. I think you will agree that in all cases that step completely transformed the look of the vehicle.

This is yet another example of not judging a paint job until it’s finished.

What’s next?

Looking at the scenario list, the following three scenarios require:

  • Flak 43
  • A second tripod mounted MG42 team
  • Sdkfz 10/5 Half-Track mounted AA Gun
  • Sdkfz 7/1 Half-Track mounted AA Gun
  • Another Sdkfz 222 Armoured Car
  • Two more Sdkfz 251/1 Half Tracks

I’ve got all the models, though several require assembly, so it could be a couple of weeks before I report further.

5 Comments on Painting WW2 German 15mm Armour – Red Devils in the Night, Scenario 6

  1. They look great once dry brushed, so bleached bone only hey! Well done.


    • Well, actually, Revell Dark Earth, followed by Bleached Bone 🙂

      Drybrushing works well to tone down the strong colours and blend everything together.
      The close-up pictures probably acentuate my painting flaws 🙂 Once you hit ‘Wargames Range’ on these (i.e. arms length+) I’m very happy.

  2. Those look mighty fine. Thanks for mentioning mine on FB. Somehow I think yours look better than mine. The thing is that I had to paint a LOT of vehicles (15mm and 28mm) in that colour scheme and actually didn’t really have the time to do it so I just went with the airbrush. The thing is that at 15mm I think that “sharp” (or sharpish) edged camo looks more proper than airbrushed, at least with my hardware.

    I think though that your approach actually looks better. Huge fan of the power of drybrushing when it comes to making camo “work” and your minis showcase that excellently.

    What do you think of the PSC decals? I tried to order those, but the store just didn’t get them (ordering from PSC directly to Austria is rather expensive), so I went with Battlefront’s “German Panzer decals” or something like that. And they’re …alright, but the black parts of the Balkenkreuze mostly are slightly off. Which is kinda annoying.

    As a wash I used That special stuff by AK Interactive: Enamel Wash for German Vehicles Dark Yellow. That stuff is really, really nice because as with oils you can manipulate it for quite a while after applying and it doesn’t pool in that bad way which leaves “water marks”. I used Coat d’Arms’ Dark Brown superwash stuff too though and it’s rather nice. I think I’ll stick to the enamel stuff for now (or maybe just give oils a try).

    Anyway, very, very nice tanks, thanks for sharing your recipe and the infos!

  3. Boiled lollies to chocolates! Great result, well done.

  4. mcdouglas2015 // January 26, 2016 at 11:06 // Reply

    Great job…German camo is a bit of an issue for me (ie I cant do it well!) as Welsh Wizard will tell you, but it was really interesting to see this step by step. The red did look “too red”, but it got there in the end!

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  1. Painting German Vehicles – Red Devils in the Night, Scenarios 8, 9 & 10 | Meeples & Miniatures

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